The Soul of Surfing
Aktualisiert: 29. Juli 2019
Why we surf
You can ask any surfer, they will for sure have a quick answer for you if you asked them why they surf. And most likely, when you ask several, you will receive answers that will sound pretty similar, although I am sure each one will have their own special connection with it and reason why they surf.
To me, surfing is not a sport, and also no mere hobby. To me, it is much more. It is a way of life, a way to live. No matter where I am, the ocean is always with me. She is my most divine teacher, my place of calm. She provides me, with strength, with love, with joy, and with endless lessons for living my life. The essence of surfing to me is the deep connection we feel with the ocean, as well as the spirit of aloha. It is an art. A retreat. A true gift.
It is all about performance
Too often life is all about performance. And you will find this also in the world of surfing. For many years I would get frustrated with myself for not improving more, for not getting better faster at riding a wave, choosing the right wave, paddling through the waves. Until one day (yes, it was really on one day) I finally understood that for me it was not about that. My lesson that I was offered was the invitation to let go. Of the battling and fighting, with the ocean and with myself. Of the sense of perfection so deeply instilled in me, and the idea of what was good enough. Letting go of the worry what other people would possibly think and how they would perceive me. And to accept and allow joy and ease into my life.